Red Index
Jordan Luca SS24 launched around a tiny criterion, a barometer for the state of our economic stability - the lipstick index. Coined by cosmetics magnate Leonard Lauder, he of Estée fame, this small pocket-sized maquillage may seem inconsequential, though it is the benchmark for our sartorial appetite and, by proxy, the state of our wallets. SS24 marks the first complete womenswear collection for the brand taking inspiration from this tiny pocket paint, with its most potent shade, deep red, a recurring theme evocative of so many emotions and images from sex to passion and death. The collection’s neutral and muted palette in greys, browns, charcoals, and vanilla denotes reticence and restraint intercut with red, suggestive of glamour and power and the slick red backdrop further exemplifies danger and high alert.
High-necked tailoring touches on the economic emblems of Wall Street and the city. Suits are set against translucent slips, figure-hugging florals, silky skirts and minis in cream and white tones. The rose prints with their delicate petals countering twisted thorns seem to exemplify the notion of optimism and recognition of beauty amongst the austere. At the same time, fetishistic elements, from transparent wipe-clean latex dresses to blood-red arm-length gloves, are the paradigms of sexual power, perhaps the antecedence to economics and the driving force of all.
SS24 collection celebrated gender norms while embracing its blurred lines with non-binary pieces suited to any body shape. Separates like skirts appeared on male and female models, and vests connoted fashion’s masculine-feminine duality. Fluid camo pants and tailored trousers were topped with jackets from bombers to bikers, symbolic of youth's rebellious subsets yet not reminiscent - only looking only forward with a cause and a desire. Pointed monochrome boots and spiked embellishments completed looks designed to take us from post-anxiety through adversity delineating the small things that evoke happiness, whatever the outlook.
SS24 is an accomplished collection, all-encompassing and inclusive, an artful mix of tailoring and playful irreverence and a celebrant of all the constant elements that stay with us despite economic and societal pressures. Love, sex, passion, power and a semblance of hope will always drive us forward, and a slick of red on the lips is sometimes all that's needed to ignite all of those elements.
All Photos by @jasonlloydevans
“Love, sex, passion, power and a semblance of hope will always drive us forward, and a flash of red on the lips is sometimes all that’s needed to ignite all of those elements.”
Many thanks to Ethan and Lewis at Agency Eleven @agencyeleven
You can see more of Jordan Luca’s collections here: https://www.jordanluca.com
Credits:
Images Jason Lloyd-Evans @jasonlloydevans and Stefan Knauer
Styling and consul/ng: Samia Giobellina @samiagiobellina Cas/ng: IM Cas/ng @irene_manicone
Hair: Anthony Turner @anthonyturnerhair @streetersagency
Make-up: Inge Grognard @ingegrognard @maworldgroup
Producer: Antony Waller @ant_waller
Nails: Liia Zotova @the.fingersofgodArt Director: William Nda/ra @williamcult
Head of Marke/ng & Communica/ons: Remi Villard @remi.bv
Senior Designer: Kayla Satzger @kaylasatzger
Product Design Manager: Daniela Corcio @ikonostas_id Admin & Logis/cs Manager: Andrea Santangelo
Product Developer: Svetoslav Kolchagov @kolchagovdesigner Produc/on Coordinator: Sophia Benjamin @ss.benn
Design Assistant: Saimonas Tartenis @es.ta.r
Jewellery Designer: Ciccy Lyu @ciccylyu
Special Thanks to:
Beside Communica/ons @besidecom_pr
Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana @milanfashionweek Roberto Pelizzoni @robertopelizzoni
#SS24 #JORDANLUCA #MILANFASHIONWEEK #MFW