East Meets West
'Andersson Bell is a Seoul-based South Korean label that is approaching its tenth anniversary, having been founded by Creative Director Dohun Kim in 2014. His is a vision which embraces a specific East meets West duality, an ethos implicit in the brand's name. Andersson being an archetypal Swedish surname which references a visit to Stockholm which left him with a love of the minimalistic Scandi design aesthetic, while Bell is a homage to the Korean temple bell, a symbol synonymous with that most spiritual of countries.
It's a merging of cross-cultural, cross-continental influences which manifests itself in a creative process where Korean street-style-inspired designs are filtered through a Scandinavian sensibility. One which has seen the brand attract huge recognition in the region and beyond but has yet to see it become a truly global label.
That seems all about to change with the release of the S/S 24 collection reflectively titled "The 10th Anniversary". While it remains a quintessential and recognizable assemblage of Andersson Bell garments, the designer felt that this ten-year landmark was an apt and opportune time to stage a fashion show at Milan Menswear Week, one of the premier events in the fashion calendar. A show that would bring the brand global visibility and the commercial and creative benefits that come with it. An international debut that required a sumptuous setting and one which was provided by the opulent splendour of the Societa del Giardino building, a former palace of the Milanese aristocracy.
All Photos by @paolosteve
For S/S 24, Kim cast his mind back to his teenage years spent in Seoul's vintage emporiums and the military surplus and denim wear that he was automatically drawn to. This inspiration reveals itself in a collection which marries fashion-forward functionality with impressive innovation. One which sees deliciously distressed pieces, such as a hand-knitted crocheted floor-length frock punctuated with shades of blue and violet, that has been weathered and torn in places. Alongside this sits a hybrid bomber constructed from a series of former MA-1 flight jackets, and the theme is continued with former military wear repurposed into a jacket replete with giant pockets and corset detailing at the back.
“The belief among industry insiders is that Dohun Kim’s imprint is destined to be Korea’s biggest fashion export since the iconic eyewear brand Gentle Monster.”
The deconstructed theme is maintained with tracksuit bottoms which are fronted with distressed denim shorts, while acid wash jeans are twinned with cargo pants. The nineties reimagined for the twenty-twenties aesthetic further reveals itself in denim minis with the most razor of razor-sharp pleats. Accessories are also to the fore with two of the most delicious bags, the "Vaso", which comes in a vase-shaped silhouette and another, which takes the shape of a guitar. For S/S 24, Kim also brought us a new unisex trainer named "The Aaron Trail", a super comfy and stylish low-top affair coming in colourways of beige, black, crimson and silver.
There was an eclectic ease to this collection of deconstructed delights, and the juxtaposition of the pieces with the imperial grandeur of the show's setting highlighted them to great effect. Embedding the brand even further in the Milanese consciousness, Kim, working with fashion incubator and marketing partner Tomorrow, took advertising space on the city trams which traverse Milan's destination shopping districts.
It was a holistic approach which was rewarded by Andersson Bell exploding onto Milan Fashion Week with a breakout show and recognition factor that introduced them to a hugely appreciative new audience. The belief among industry insiders is that Dohun Kim's imprint is destined to be Korea's biggest fashion export since the iconic eyewear brand Gentle Monster. Based on the consummately crafted collection which took this fashion capital by storm, that's a forecast we here at Swift wouldn't disagree with.
"The 10th Anniversary" collection doesn't just celebrate a decade of design longevity; it's also a landmark moment that announces the brand's arrival onto the global fashion stage and what can only be a stellar trajectory.
Many thanks to Liz and all at Agency Eleven for their help.
You can follow ADSB Andersson Bell here https://en.anderssonbell.com/ and on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/anderssonbell/?hl=en
Credits:
@anderssonbell SS24
Creative Director: Dohun Kim @linus__kim
Styling: Robbie Spencer @robbiespencer @artpartner Casting: Rachel Chandler @midlandagency
Hair: Kiyoko Odo @kiyokoodo
Make Up: Anne Sophie Costa @annesophiecosta
Nail: Jacob&David
Production: Urban Production @urbanproductionevents Video: Videogang @videogang_
Music: Flavio Graziano @flavio__paolo
PR: Agency Eleven @agencyeleven
Show Notes: Paul Toner @pltnr
Photos by @paolosteve
