Synthetic Synergy
Shahini Fakhourie is a Brooklyn, New York city based designer who served her fashion apprenticeship with industry icon Tommy Hilfiger before founding her eponymous brand in 2017. This was followed in 2019 by her debut capsule collection, one which explored issues close to her heart such as social inequality, femininity and sexuality. Issues which are borne from her own experiences as a native New Yorker of Carribean heritage and which continue to both inform and inspire her.
The vision for her SS23 collection evocatively entitled "Synthetic Femininity" emerged as she had cause to ponder the socio-economic and societal changes driven by conservative agendas which have riven the USA over the last few years. Agendas which have led to the reversal of reproductive rights, a widening chasm between the haves and the have nots and a retrogressive view on humankinds right to identify as who they want to. These thoughts coalesced around the way in which society views traditional gender roles and the realization that despite the fundamentalist forces which may seem to be controlling opinion more and more humans are challenging the archaic stereotyped constructs of masculinity and femininity.
Synthetic Femininity Campaign
Shahini Fakhourie is a label that is not only defined by this commitment to amplify human rights but one that's also imbued with an environmental empathy which manifests itself in the brand working with sustainable, vegan fabrics and adhering to a zero-waste ethicality.
We sat down with Shahini to ask her about the influences that have brought her to this stage in her career, the inspirations behind "Synthetic Femininity" and her hopes and aspirations for the future.
Have you always wanted to be a designer and is there a specific person or brand that inspired you to choose this career?
When I was really young, I wanted to be a vet. But then my grandmother taught me to sew when I was about 12 and ever since I knew that's what I'd do. Design for me has always been the space where I can return to create while conveying a message.
You previously worked with Tommy Hilfiger, what key lessons did you take away from your time there?
I absolutely loved my time there and was so fortunate to work with an amazing team. I'd say the biggest lessons I took were the importance of working in teams, going after what you want, and yes, learn as much as you can but also bring everything you've got to the table.
Your first collection came out in 2019 - how have you navigated this challenging few years through the pandemic and what have you learned from this period?
As a small business it's been difficult but the support I've found when I've looked for it has been so reinvigorating! Tightening up the supply chain and focusing on collaborations that inspire me are two things I've found very important for my brand.
Guests at the Synthetic Femininity Event - Image: Mint By Sajeda
You revisit the concept of "Controller Disconnected" across your collections. Can you give us an insight into this concept?
When the controller is disconnected you can step out of the matrix. When the controller is disconnected there may be a glitch in the matrix. This phrase can mean many different things to many people but can also evolve throughout the course of even one day.
Form and function guide the journey of your collection, what would you say is the key creating clothes with the perfect blend of these elements?
The lack of women-led, high-end streetwear brands also propels the DNA of the brand. Who are other women-led brands that have inspired you and what advice would you give to aspiring female designers hoping to break into the industry?
I'll always look to the greats as inspiration for so many different reasons. People like DVF, Donna Karan, Rei Kawakubo, and Stella McCartney are just a few. And I really love what Simone Rocha is doing, I adore Nanushka. I'd tell anyone looking to enter the fashion industry to not give up. It's tough, but if it's what you want, it's worth it. Oh, and find a mentor.
Your designs are founded on a pillar of sustainable design, how do you ensure you are as environmentally sound as possible?
Some of the practices currently in place are creating zero waste patterns, using all excess fabric- which are either natural or eco-friendly- in future works, collaborating with minority men and women-owned small businesses, and fostering animals through local shelters. This is just the start, as the company grows, learning how to navigate sustainable practices will always need to be top of mind. Transparency is key.
With many brands using greenwashing tactics in the name of sustainability, what changes would you like to see across the industry in the name of environmentally conscious fashion?
I think it's much easier right now for smaller brands to adapt if they haven't already. The bigger companies need to look at what sustainable small brands have been doing for years and implement actionable sustainable practices. Because the industry is so global, maybe starting with local guidelines is the first step in tackling this issue.
Micheal Edwards
Your luxury streetwear brand has a pared back minimalist aesthetic, what led you choose this elegant approach to your collection?
As I've been able to refine my design aesthetic and really study the history of fashion as well as art history, I've found my design style and how I can use different elements in my process. Because streetwear was always the most appealing style to me, I naturally gravitated toward it. Infusing a bit of luxury into it felt right. Who doesn’t want to feel expensive and special?
How do you strike a balance between sustainability and viability?
It's been a learning curve for sure! I've learned a lot through trial and error but also feedback from mentors who are much more business oriented. Fusing those lessons with the brand's core sustainable practices is the sweet spot.
Your designs are created under the concept of synthetic femininity. which sheds societal norms of femininity. Does creating your collection under this concept restrict you or give you more freedom in the design process?
This concept is infinite. To be able to create the concept of who you are is as old as time, but only reserved for the fearless.
What are your hopes and aspirations for the future of the brand?
I want this brand to grow and be recognized if only for the mere fact that doing just that is an incredible feat, not done by many truly independent designers. So that when another person wants to enter a space that isn't so easily broken into is a little more energized in knowing it's been done, so it can be done.
Shahini at the Synthetic Femininity Event - Micheal Edwards
Shahini Fakhourie is an emerging designer who is entrancing us with her clothes, expanding the gender conversation and opening doors for those who share her ethical intentionality and will undoubtedly follow behind her. Hers is a blueprint for doing things differently, modus which has enabled her to harness the power of fashion to also talk to us about human rights, environmental responsibility and community engagement.
With her SS23 collection she has gifted us a miscellany of pieces which bears testimony to her tutelage under Tommy Hilfiger and the cultural touchstones which have so infused her creative and production processes. Influences which have manifested themselves in the most beautifully cut and eminently wearable minimalist luxury streetwear
While her collections title may include the word synthetic Shahini Fakhourie is far from artificial. Her combination of exciting and exceptional pieces combined with an inherent ethical intentionality convince us that she is very much the real deal and someone who will be on our fashion radar for the foreseeable future.