Serving the Community
Hibiscus Ibiza is an emerging fashion label founded by design duo Carley Hague and Liz Mendez. With backgrounds that include styling a multitude of A-list celebrities, producing campaigns for global fashion brands, providing art direction for seminal Ibizan club night Cocoon and designing costumes for that island’s most iconic clubs, it was only going to be a matter of time before they established their own fashion label.
Influenced by Ibiza's open and inclusive spirit and inspired by a lexicon of queer culture that includes celebrated 1970s drag artist and activist Hibiscus, it was no surprise that Hibiscus Ibiza launched their debut collection "Eye of Kali" at legendary East London LGBTQ+ pub and performance venue, The Glory.
Showing during London Fashion Week to an audience drawn from the pairs queer "family" and allies, East End creatives and fashion industry insiders, Hibiscus Ibiza unveiled a parade of club-ready pieces modelled by humans who identified as simply fabulous. Sashaying through The Glory with posed purpose, all drama and dagger cheekbones yet aligned with ironic humour, it was a show that exuded the sense of pure joy and abundant inclusivity that lies at the core of the brand's ethos.
After the fashion month dust had settled, Swift spoke to Carley and Liz about what inspired "Eye of Kali", the celebration of gender fluidity and queer community, which lies at the core of the brand's DNA and their plans and aspirations for 2024.
Congratulations on your debut SS24 collection, “Eye of Kali”, which we loved. What was the inspiration behind it, and what message do you want its evocative title to convey?
Well, we wanted to create a fresh, exciting range of print-heavy party/ club wear that strung a massively creative chord, bringing colour flare and expression to the wearer. We were inspired by a big painting of the body and the flowing movement, with the need to accentuate all the hot parts!
Eye of Kali seemed to fit so perfectly as we were feeling both the ferocity of Kali's energy and the kaleidoscope. The eye can see, and the Eye of Kali is also the name of a fancy tropical hybrid of Hibiscus flower. So, it all fitted perfectly
Taking things back to the beginning, what are your fashion backgrounds and how did you meet?
Carley - After studying fashion, I found my way to be head of the studio at NOKI, working alongside JJ Hudson, creating looks for two Fashion Easts and much more fun that NOKI got up to. After that, I became connected to some great stylists, Kimi O’Neill, Kimmy Howells and Chloe Richardson, who gave me loads of great tailor-making jobs for pop stars such as Skin from Skunkanansie, Jessie J, Paloma Faith, Natasha from Bat for Lashes and Kesha, as well as a host of other great stage performers. And that's what I have continued to do alongside working with Liz for over 11 years on and off, making outfits for the big Ibiza clubs. We actually met through our stylist friend Chloe Richardson
Liz- My fashion background is as a Creative director, brand consultant, designer, stylist, luxury accessories buyer and clubland entrepreneur, and being at the forefront of the global fashion, music and party scene. I also have a production company in Ibiza shaping campaigns for international brands such as Timperley, Julia Clancey & Alexandra Miro. I have also designed and styled head-to-toe looks on leading performers and celebrities (such as Kelis, All Saints, Jaime Winston, Ella Eyre and Paris Hilton), and my vintage accessories have been seen on many A-list stars, including Beyonce, Rita Ora, Lily Allen, Cara Delevingne, Miley Cyrus Nelly Furtado, Paloma Faith, Olivia Palermo and Jessie J.
What was the catalyst for you founding Hibiscus Ibiza?
People kept asking us to make the outfits we had made for the clubs, but of course, they were only tailor-made for those individual clubs. So, we knew we needed to make a line that gave the people what they wanted, something exciting and new to dance their hearts out in.
The label’s named after legendary 1970s drag artist Hibiscus whose ensemble The Cockettes also included queer icons Sylvester and Divine. What was it about Hibiscus's life and activism that motivated you to name your brand after them?
We just loved everything about Hibiscus's ultra-otherworldliness; there was something so inspiring watching Hibiscus's conviction and this soft name to convey their desire to be floating in the field of a new fresh wave of not sitting in any fixed genre that was so present in those times. The incredible make-up, the looks, and the intense over-the-top headdresses all got to Carley so much that it inspired much of her acts and performances. Treading the light fantastic between the worlds.
It also references Ibiza, and we understand that you previously created costumes for podium dancers at Amnesia and DC10. How did that experience prepare you for designing this collection, and why do you think the island retains its magic for so many of us 35 years after “The Second Summer of Love”?
Liz - I’ve been coming to the island since 98 and have now lived here full time for the last eight or so years…. It’s a constant inspiration; the lighting is incredible, and it is nice to be immersed in nature and have much more sun! I’ve been collaborating with clubs such as Cocoon. I was Art Director for five years, plus I collaborated on the costumes for many, bringing in designers such as Jack Irving and Carley, and I first met for Paradise year one! I love working with her; it’s such an easy process. I can share a concept or mood board, and she makes magic happen. She’s very skilled …. I also brought her into Pacha collaborations for the likes of Hot Since 82 and Pure Pacha, and there we started talking about doing a line… I mean, who doesn’t want to be a dancer!! It’s every girl’s dream, and we wanted to share that.
Ibiza has got that epic, energetic pull; you’ve got the exciting party scene, but also, the island itself gives off such a strong vibe of freedom and joy.
It’s a collection of gorgeously vibrant gender-fluid pieces which play with silhouette and colour. How important to you was it to create pieces that aren't confined by societal and “gender” stereotypes?
Clothes are for everybody to enjoy from every walk of life, we feel that everyone has the right to wear whatever they want and to be free to be who they are, so the clothes are for you to express your sexuality however you wish, we both are heavily involved on gender fluid communities so it only seemed natural to us.
In the show notes, you say that the collection is a celebration of brazen self-love. How do you want those who wear Hibiscus Ibiza to feel about themselves and the world around them when they put on one of your pieces?
Free - they want to feel free to feel love and connection, to dance their expression, to be big, loud and proud to show all the beauty of life with the colours and brushstrokes feeding the art and flow of creativity.
The expressions of celebration and inclusivity which define the collection were exemplified by showing it in Dalston's queer venue, The Glory. How important to you was it to debut your work in front of the queer community and allies?
Liz - Carley loves her queer family; she has been having such a great time with the wonderful people in the community, knowing Jonny Woo and John Nolan (aka Sizzle) for years and all her beautiful dancing partners of Glastonbury’s first gay bar, BLOCK 9 the NYC Downlow a place where all the wonders of this scene get to be who they want to be. The Glory is the home to these wonderful beings, a great hub of brilliant people, so it only seemed fitting to show our love and celebrate there with them.
You collaborated with the hugely respected milliner Piers Atkinson who created the stunning headpieces for the show. How did that collaboration come about?
Carley - I have known Piers for years from my days of NOKI and also modelling in a number of his look book shoots - mainly naked!!
I got to know him well and have a great love for him. We have been working with him on other Ibiza dancer projects over the years; he has also made some headpieces for the collection, so it was just perfect that he was up for doing more for the show and adding the cherry on top to our cream cake. We love Piers.
Sustainability is at the core of the brand's identity. What sustainable practices do you follow, and how and where do you source your recycled fabrics and materials?
Well, sustainability is a hard task in the fashion industry, but we strive to be as sustainable as we can. We sourced all our recycled fabrics from a UK-based company that offered us high-end, beautiful fabrics to print our tailor-made designs from the gorgeous abstract artist Emma Stone-Johnson’s amazing, gorgeous paintings. And sourcing recycled lycra from another UK-based company. Producing fabrics in this country to make garments involves a higher cost, but it also reduces the omission levels for the label. So that means our carbon footprint is less than other companies that have to send fabrics overseas to be made up. And the beads are created from recycled plastic as well as using vintage and dead stick beads that have been foraged carefully from many a car boot and antique store.
After the success of "Eye of Kali", what are your plans and aspirations for 2024?
Well, we hope to get many more articles about us and the clothes in some great fashion shoots, get some more pop artists and amazing people wearing them to be seen. Getting the clothes stocked in some prestigious boutiques and start planning the next collection for release next Sept as it will be annually shown as the garments have no season. They are for the party, and we party all year round.
Hibiscus Ibiza is a brand whose energy and ethos are borne out of those so important safe spaces in Ibiza and London's East End that allow the queer community and their allies to live life as our authentic true selves. For that, we need to thank all those who have gone before and Hibiscus Ibiza, who have harnessed the transformative and invigorating power of fashion to gift us an assemblage of fiercely fabulous pieces to wear while we live our very best lives. Pieces that are made with exquisite artistry and imbued with ethical intentionality.
@nathanleegrantisfuckingdead
The unapologetic escapism and maximalist mantra of "Eye of Kali" was one of our favourite collections and shows of 2023. We'd suggest that Hibiscus Ibiza is a brand you should keep an eye on in 2024.
Many thanks to Carley and Liz for taking the time to talk to Swift. You can connect with the brand on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/hibiscus_ibiza/ and on their website https://www.hibiscus.fashion/
Credits for show
@hibiscus_ibiza
A collaboration @carleyhaguedesigner @lizmendezvision
Stylists @carleyhaguedesigner and @hopevonjoelfashionstylist
Decor and floral wonder
Yan @yanskates
Jade @blackout_shop_brighton
Hats
@piersatkinson
Bags
@katiefrance.london
Print artist
@emmastonejohnson
Print Tec
@aliceraph
Embroidery
@jennykingembroidery
Show producer
@axlfshaw
Models/dancers/musicians
@yosclark
@charlotteca88
@r.osew
@camille_leon_queen
@taliaadarling_
@itsyourguardianangel
@onlybourgeoisie
@iamsadieclayton
@taliaadarling
@dianarossmight
@karengrymm
@cocoacoveredlady
@alex_alexus
@ll_marrius_peach_ll
@giorgiospiegelfeld
@lovejacoblove
@fabs.Leo
@____suj____
@elizabethwolfedesign
@__meshii
@nathanleegrantisfuckingdead
Nails
@giulia_oldani_nails
Hair and makeup
@danwchapman
@camille_leon_queen
@millie_makeup4
@samanthak_mua
@wigs.by.Sian
@liaslaney.mua
@sophiagreenmua_
@ruby.m.makeup
@beauty_by_neetusingh
Many models/ performers have done their own .
assistants
@hopevonjoelfashio
nstylist
@lali.moor
@frankiekrum
@Prajjulovesfood
@bk.pichay
Earrings
Hibiscus own and
@chilligbythesea
@alicehandmadethai
Sunglasses
@brightonbirdcage
Music
@sweet_nothing_sam
@charlotteca88
@karengrymm
Thanks @Jonnywoouk and @johnsizzle for the glorious @thegloryldn venue
Special thanks to Alice x