Disciplines
Childhood memories stay with us all, with certain moments leaving an indelible mark that informs our outlook and ethos; this resonates deeply with young fashion designer Leo Prothmann. Fleeting events in impressionable years, which can seem inconsequential to others, have cast a long-term view on his perspective on the world and his design vision. Living with familial expectations, searching for a sense of identity against societal disapproval resulted in rebellion and the search for a safe space through his pre-collection '5:30'. This chrysalis yielded the young designer's creative interpretations of art and life experience and was the genesis of his eponymous brand.
Leo's stunning FW24 collection entitled 'Disciplines' continues the message set by '5:30', melding sculptural elements with workwear and street style. Each curve and fold represent acceptance of diversity and an irreverent push against misplaced expectations and suppression. Leo was supposed to be a champion horse rider, but at 14, he felt fashion's calling, much to his parent's chagrin. Hailing from Spain but relocating to Berlin in his teenage years, he was exposed to this artistic hub's cutting-edge creativity. Like many marginalised or misinterpreted youths, music was the art form of solace and inspiration. For Leo, Rave culture felt like home and offered a sense of belonging.
The city also exposed the young designer to contemporary German artists like Hede Bühl and Rebecca Horn. Their work instilled a fascination with sculptural elements, the body and their relationship with the surrounding space. From there, Leo studied Fashion Design and Technology at LCF and UAL in London, which led to placements with some of London's most renowned designers. Craig Green's work is noted as opening new avenues for menswear with gender-neutral qualities, whilst Matty Bovan's is often the highlight of London Fashion Week. It's an excellent grounding, and it shows in Leo's work.
We talked to the designer about the integral part that those formative years have played in his concepts and aesthetic, the lessons he garnered from his time with Green and Bovan and his aspirations for the rest of the year.
Congratulations on your F/W 24 collection entitled "Disciplines". What was your inspiration for it, and what message do you want its evocative title to convey?
The foundation of the collection is deeply rooted in my personal journey
across various "disciplines," symbolising the quest for identity and a sense of belonging. I grew up surrounded by horses and pursued equestrian show jumping – an upbringing that demanded and instilled great responsibility and discipline. However, throughout my early years, the absence of a true sense of belonging was a significant aspect of my life, compelling me to embark on a search for my community. Moving to Berlin in my teenage years, I found community within rave culture, heavily influencing me personally and artistically. This profound desire to find my place inspired the creation of this collection, which draws substantial inspiration from the static sculptures crafted by artist Hede Bühl. I reached out to Hede Bühl at the start of this collection and have gained valuable insight into her process; consequently, she allowed me to use her sculptures within this collection visually.
By integrating elements from my equestrian and blacksmithing background, I have placed metal, leather, and craftsmanship at the core of garment construction and texture. These materials not only encapsulate the essence of my artistic vision but also serve as a representation of my personal journey. They evoke strength, resilience, and the transformative power of embracing one's true self. The intricate fusion of these diverse influences and mediums allows the collection to manifest as a tangible expression of my exploration of identity and the pursuit of a genuine sense of belonging. Each garment reflects the profound impact that embracing one's unique background, and personal narrative can have on self-discovery.
We loved the rich array of fabrics and textures, together with the structural elements. How would you describe the LP London aesthetic to those new to the brand?
The aesthetic is somewhere in between the rave and the farm. Workwear, known for its practicality and durability, specifically in blacksmithing, resonates with me, much like the functional aspects of ravewear. Both require garments that facilitate ease of movement. In selecting colours, I drew inspiration from landscapes, sculptures, and oil stains found in the workshops of blacksmiths. My intention was to emphasise the raw and gritty nature of labour in stable work, juxtaposed with the energy of post-rave experiences.
Throughout the creative process, I have long admired the stillness and artistry inherent in sculptures, appreciating the painstaking effort invested in their creation. Therefore, many of my silhouettes are derived from static sculptures, incorporating rigid elements that contrast with the dynamic nature of both rave and stable wear. This deliberate clash between rigidity and movement serves to bring forth an aesthetic that intertwines elements from diverse sources, ultimately producing a collection that embodies both the tranquillity of sculpture and the spirited energy of rave and stable wear.
“Through my work, I am deeply committed to challenging and dismantling societal expectations regarding the clothing choices and behaviours of individuals based on their perceived sexual orientation.”
You interned with Craig Green and worked with Matty Bovan before founding LP London. What are the most important lessons you took from those experiences, and how have you implemented them into your own brand's culture and identity?
My experience interning and working in the fashion industry has provided me with valuable insights into the immense effort and passion required to create a collection. Witnessing first-hand the meticulous precision and dedication that designers pour into their work has been truly inspiring. It has fuelled my determination to establish my own label and cultivate a distinctive aesthetic and vision that can be instantly recognised as mine.
I aspire to achieve the level of recognition where people, from a distance, can confidently identify my work as that of LP. This aspiration drives me to continuously refine and develop my unique style, honing it to the point where it becomes an instantly recognisable signature. Through hard work, attention to detail, and an unwavering commitment to my creative vision, I strive to create collections that carry the same strength and impact as those of the designers who have influenced me.
The presentation that showcased the garments also featured your paintings and furniture. How interconnected are these three disciplines, and is there one that most influences the others?
Painting serves as a medium through which I explore colour and experiment with the composition of hues on a canvas. Typically, I begin by creating small images and arranging them together to assess the harmony of colours before progressing to larger scales. Working on a larger scale allows me to incorporate full-body movement while also considering the prevailing mood and emotions I experience.
Regarding furniture, I consider it more of a hobby. I don't adhere to any specific rules; instead, I enjoy repurposing wooden materials I come across on the streets. I craft furniture forms by creatively assembling and shaping these reclaimed pieces. For instance, I constructed an L-shaped wooden outdoor space for my terrace last year. Engaging in activities such as building, drilling, and sanding is creatively fulfilling and provides me with a therapeutic outlet.
The model casting was inspired. How important was it to cast models whose own narrative seemed so in synch with the collections?
Ensuring that the models for my show embody authenticity and display genuine personalities on the runway was of utmost importance to me. While I appreciate a thoughtfully curated cast, my brand is rooted in the representation of individuals and their unique characters. Consequently, having friends take part became a crucial aspect. Through John Foley's introduction, I was fortunate to be connected with BLUE AGENCY LONDON, a casting agency whose approach greatly resonates with me. Their diverse portfolio encompasses individuals of varying heights, sizes, and personalities. The collaboration with BLUE AGENCY LONDON was exceptionally rewarding, as we shared mutual values and a shared perspective on the model industry.
It's a collection that challenges our views on gender norms. How much of that has been influenced by your own journey of self-discovery?
During my younger years, I often felt a sense of peculiarity. My circle of friends consisted predominantly of females. I indulged in horse riding, had a fondness for extravagant clothing and towering high heels, listened to Lady Gaga, and found joy in sewing. These interests and preferences did not elicit an enthusiastic response from others, especially as a young boy. Consequently, I found myself questioning not only my identity but also my sexuality, as societal norms clashed with what was expected of my gender at that tender age.
Through my work, I am deeply committed to challenging and dismantling societal expectations regarding the clothing choices and behaviours of individuals based on their perceived sexual orientation. I aim to remove the focus on sexuality altogether and instead emphasise the importance of embracing one's unique personality, free from assumptions or stereotypes associated with their sexual orientation. By doing so, I aspire to foster an inclusive environment where individuality thrives, unrestricted by rigid societal norms.
How do you want the person who wears LP London to feel about themselves and the world around them when they wear one of your pieces?
Free, boundaryless, fun, reckless.
You grew up in Spain and Berlin and were a professional horse rider before moving to London to study at the LCF. What motivated that change in career path?
Regrettably, I encountered obstacles that led to the discontinuation of my equestrian career. At certain points in my journey, my priorities shifted, causing me to inadvertently neglect something that was once of great importance to me. However, my love for fashion and the inherent expressiveness it embodies remained steadfast. I've come to recognise that horse riding and fashion share certain parallels. Both require resilience, dedication, and passion. Navigating and communicating with a horse is a challenging endeavour that demands love and respect, treating them as equals.
In embarking on this new path, my aim is to reclaim and heal the parts of myself that I may have lost within the equestrian field. I intend to approach this pursuit with renewed determination and resilience. By intertwining my passion for design with the qualities I've learned through horse riding, I seek to forge a path that embraces both disciplines, allowing me to express my creativity while embodying the same dedication and respect that are essential in the equestrian world.
The label bears the name of your new home. How has London's street style and energy influenced your creative process?
In 2019, I made the bold decision to relocate to London with a burning desire to pursue my passion for design. Despite it being a distant dream that did not align with my family's expectations, I dedicated myself to working evening shifts in hospitality to make this aspiration a reality. London, known for its challenges, particularly in terms of finances, provided me with the courage and determination to believe that achieving something I yearned for so intensely was indeed possible.
It was here in London that I truly discovered myself. I found my community, formed deep connections with like-minded individuals, and cultivated an incredibly strong bond with my partner. From the very beginning, she encouraged me to persevere and never lose sight of my dream of becoming a designer. Hence, I named my brand LP LONDON, as this city has become my true home—a place where I not only found myself but also discovered my chosen family and was able to heal the relationship bond that once broke with my family.
One of the collection pieces is made from lionfish skins sourced from a company that ethically creates leather from invasive species and revives ecosystems. How did that collaboration come about?
LCF provided us with a valuable opportunity to participate in a sponsorship application with INVERSA LEATHERS, which immediately piqued my interest. I have a profound fascination for exotic skins and textures derived from animals. I am aware that this particular interest may not align with contemporary perspectives and may even be frowned upon. However, when LCF introduced us to INVERSA, I found their approach to ethically sourcing leather from farming practices highly appealing; this compelled me to strive to win the competition and secure the sponsorship.
With great enthusiasm, I submitted my application and presented my concept and collection to INVERSA, aiming to demonstrate the synergy between their sustainable leather production methods and my creative vision. By embracing their approach, I sought to showcase a harmonious blend of my passion for exotic textures and responsible sourcing.
What other steps do you take to make LP London as sustainable as possible, and how do you monitor the integrity of your supply chains?
I am open to selling pieces from this collection to those who are interested in acquiring them. However, at this moment, I have not yet established a production process that aligns with my vision. I am committed to maintaining a comprehensive overview of the garments I create and offer to my clients. To ensure the highest quality and craftsmanship, I am currently focusing on bespoke inquiries.
By taking a bespoke approach, I can dedicate my full attention to each individual project, ensuring that the work I deliver is executed to the best of my abilities. This personalised approach allows me to tailor each garment to the unique preferences and requirements of the client.
As I continue to develop my production process, I will strive to find a balance between my commitment to maintaining a hands-on approach and the potential for broader availability of my designs. Ultimately, I aim to create a seamless experience for clients that combines the craftsmanship and attention to detail that I value while also providing an accessible avenue for them to enjoy and purchase my creations.
As we pass the midpoint of 2023, what are your goals and aspirations for LP London for the rest of the year?
For the remainder of the year, my objective is to collaborate with fellow creators, allowing their perspectives and responses to my current collection to inspire and inform my creative process. Rather than immediately diving into the next collection, I believe it is crucial to fully immerse myself in the current one. By thoroughly examining and deconstructing it, I aim to uncover any missing elements or areas of growth that may contribute to the ongoing journey.
This thorough exploration will serve as a foundation for the next collection, enabling me to delve even deeper into my creative vision and produce a more refined and profound body of work. It is essential for me to continually push the boundaries and challenge myself with each new collection. Moreover, I strive to present it in a distinct and innovative manner, ensuring that each showcase offers a unique and transformative experience for both myself and the audience. By embracing this iterative approach, I can continuously evolve as a designer and deliver collections that resonate on a deeper level.
The past positively informs the present in many ways for Leo Prothmann, from those impressionable years of self-discovery to how he develops his collections, examining each challenge, experience and success to iteratively inform his next move. It is a careful, considered journey transforming past challenges into stunning, affirmative creations.
What strikes us is that Leo is not only inherently creative, expanding his ideas across varied mediums, but also hugely disciplined and driven to succeed. His hands-on approach to clothes production exemplifies this, and undoubtedly, his formative experiences have profoundly impacted his creativity and strengthened his resilience. And, Though he didn't continue his equestrian career, it's a background that underpins his ambition to improve and innovate.
It is perhaps no coincidence that Leo found himself in London, a city renowned for its inclusivity and home of some of fashion's most experimental and forward-thinking creatives. Through his genderless design and mindful approach to his models, his collection is an impressive celebration of authenticity and the unique identities that inhabit this city and beyond, whilst it also acknowledges the multidisciplinary artists who have inspired him.
He has achieved so much at such an early stage in his career, alone and under the tutelage of some of London's most notable designers who no doubt recognised something of themselves in Leo's work and saw his potential. With press coverage and some shows and competitions behind him, there will be much anticipation to see his progression. 'Disciplines' is not only editorial-worthy, but with its street-style elements, sustainably sourced materials and underlying message, it speaks to a broad audience, some of which will have stories and experiences that will resonate deeply with Leo’s.
It's an impressive first collection, exemplary of fashion's deepest threads and ideals. It takes design back to its purest sense, not just sartorially but as an art form filled with unexpected, skilful details, demonstrating resourcefulness and respect for the environment. Ultimately, it is a collection deeply committed to challenging outdated societal views born from the designer's first-hand experience. These are not just garments; they demonstrate to others the positivity that can come of such experiences through their neutral design codes, symbolising the sense of inclusivity and home. Just as art in its many forms continues to inspire and offer Leo a safe space to express himself, so will this collection do that for others. He is a testament to the power of tenacity, imagination, impartiality, and open-mindedness. All the things that make art and fashion great.
CREATIVE DIRECTION:
LEO PROTHMANN @LEOPROTHMANN
MAKEUP:
JO MEROLA @JO.MAKEUPART
AMBER-FERN O’NEIL @AMBERFERN_ONEILL
RUMBIDAZAI NYAMUKAPA @RUMBID.ZAI
HAIR STYLING:
SAYA HASHIMOTO @SAYA_HASHIMOTO
YOKO OKUNO @YOKOOKUNOYOKO
YURI ARAI @ALACHAN0715
PHOTOGRAPHY:
STEFANOGUILIANO @STEFANOGIOVANNIGIULIANO
SARAH FASSOLD @SARAHFASSOLD
CHARLOTTE HODGKINS @PHOTOGSBYCHAR
VRINDA JELINEK @VRINDAJELINEK
PRODUCTION:
EVITA VITOLINA @VIITOLINA_