Bridging the Gap

MTG were a new name to Swift and the brand's London Fashion Week debut as part of Fashion Scout's always impressive off-schedule roster was one that we were excited to see.

With label co-founders and creative directors Lai (Lai Yuqing) and Christine (Xu Shangqian) hailing from China's Guangxi province and having graduated respectively from the London College of Fashion and University of Westminster their collection Fujian: "Fisher Women's Culture", was a melding of East meets West that promised much and didn't disappoint.

That London influence is apparent not just in the brands name, an abbreviation of "Mind The Gap" the health and safety clarion call which greets travellers as they alight from train to platform on the capitals underground, but also in the boldly contemporary sensibility of the pieces which comprised this collection. Allied to this is a dedication to the ethnic design elements of their homeland. It's a fusion that combines seamlessly, one which goes beyond the clothes themselves, the duo harnessing the power of fashion to tell the story of minority communities whose way of life is at the brink of extinction and who's culture and customs deserve both preservation and protection.

A philosophy underpinned by a staunchly sustainable ethos which sees them employing zero-waste cutting techniques and using eco-friendly materials and recycled fabrics. One which is committed to both utilizing and rejuvenating the craftsmanship and artisanal excellence which abounds in these beleaguered communities.   

We sat down with Lai and Christine to ask them about what motivated them to tell these women's story, the influences and inspirations which converged to provide the collections genesis and how they hope their work can promote both environmental and cultural sustainability. 

(1) Congratulations on your collection Fujian "Fisher Women's Culture". What inspired it and what is it about that culture that motivated you to want to share it with us?

Inspired by the evocative poetry of Shu Ting, Fujian "Fisher Women's Culture" is an ode to the enchantment of these remarkable women. Adorned with ancient tribal silver jewelry and defined by their unyielding connection to the sea, these women epitomize the essence of "Fisher Women's Culture." The collection captures their allure, their unpredictable happiness, and their awakening female consciousness.

(2) We loved the pieces which were so redolent off the sea and the seashore. How did you translate your vision so effectively to the garments and what research did you do to inform that creative process?

Our creative journey for this collection was marked by field visits to the eastern coastal region of Fujian, China, where we closely observed the transition between generations of fisher women. This tradition, on the brink of extinction and now mostly preserved in tourism ecology, provided the foundation for our artistic vision.

At the heart of "Fisher Women's Culture" lies the fusion of intangible cultural heritage from Huian women's clothing and elements of Chinese Baiyue culture, Central Plains culture, and maritime culture. The collection features iconic elements such as the yellow conical hat, floral pattern headscarf, short jacket, and wide-legged pants – symbols of the resilience of fisher women's labor and their relentless pursuit of beauty and future wear.

This collection was inspired by the intangible cultural heritage of women's clothing from Huian since 1940, and in the process of the collision and fusion of various cultures such as BaiYue culture, Central Plains culture, and maritime culture in China, the spirit of the "fisherwoman" and the non-heritage clothing of Huian women have continuously evolved and taken on new forms. The typical combination of non-heritage Huian women's clothing includes a yellow straw hat, a floral headscarf, a short jacket, and wide-legged pants. This design originated from the needs of production and life, and it has evolved to this day, embodying the resilience of fisherwomen's labor and their pursuit of beauty as young women.

The reason we chose "fisherwoman culture" for this season is to express the idea that women can dress freely and choose their own cultural identity. They can defend their existence, make innovations, and maintain independence and self-confidence.

MTG has consistently merged the silhouette and three-dimensional tailoring of fashion with elements of sports aesthetics and ethnic minorities, creating a juxtaposition that showcases the fusion and conflict between minimalist lines and traditional intricate craftsmanship. This approach not only helps in preserving cultural heritage but also establishes our unique brand identity.

(3) The accompanying jewellery added to that sense of seascape. What was the inspiration for these beautiful accessories and were they designed in conjunction with the garments?

 The fusion of elements like seashells and conch shells, inspired by the Fisherwoman's intangible cultural heritage silver jewelry, leads to innovative collisions and blends in this season's collection. Earrings, bracelets, hair accessories, and waist chains are introduced as accessories for this season's products. As a continuation of the essential heritage craftsmanship that runs through every season's creation, the brand refines fabric handcrafting techniques to seamlessly merge new and old concepts.

We continue to incorporate the sturdy and durable weaving techniques and totems of the Zhuang ethnic group, conveying reverence for "procreation" and "heritage" into fabrics and clothing. The use of patchwork in the creations also reflects the brand's long-standing commitment to sustainable fashion. By recycling stock materials and repurposing second-hand products or materials, each piece is given a new lease of life and a continuation of its story.

(4) We understand it's a way of life that's on the brink of extinction. How important was it to you to document and celebrate this community?

As we mentioned our creative journey for this collection was marked by field visits to the eastern coastal region of Fujian, China, where we closely observed the transition between generations of fisher women. This tradition, on the brink of extinction and now mostly preserved in tourism ecology, provided the foundation for their artistic vision.

We both hail from diverse Chinese minority backgrounds and have woven our personal experiences into the fabric of the brand. Our commitment to cultural sustainability is evident in every stitch, as we extract unique narratives from ethnic cultures and translate them into a modern context.

In a fashion world often obsessed with trends, we believe MTG stands as a beacon of authenticity. Our collections consistently explore our own experiences and symbols from ethnic minority cultures, crafting a mysterious futuristic image that embodies both romance and cultural heritage.

 (5) How much did your own heritage and cultural identities influence you in wanting to tell these women's story?

For MTG, the expression of "ethnicity" is essential. We both come from different Chinese ethnic minorities, which largely defines the brand's origin and core. Zhuang and Manchu cultures have been a part of our upbringing, becoming the fertile ground for our individual growth. Therefore, MTG's goal is to extract unique narratives from ethnic cultures and then translate and pass them on using a young, contemporary, and modern language. We also infuse the romantic and delicate sensibilities of female designers into MTG's designs. Looking at the series released by us so far, the SS23 collection focused on the Zhuang ancestral goddess "Buyi" exploring Zhuang people's beliefs in life. "Huapo" welcomes Zhuang people into the world and sends them to the afterlife. Meanwhile, the AW23 collection delved into the marriage customs of ethnic minorities, with silver bells tinkling and embroidered balls conveying emotions. The result is a collection that is intricate, romantic, and poetic.

Beyond the cultural roots and the romantic perspective from a female lens, we also engage with more diverse topics. Gender diversity is a core expression that we aim to convey through our designs. "We have always believed that clothing should not be constrained by 'gender,' and likewise, gender should not be a barrier to choosing what one loves."

(6) Sustainability is at the core of everything you do. Could you tell us what type of renewable materials and fabrics you used for this collection, where you sourced them and how your zero-waste cutting technique works?

The color palette of "Fisher Women's Culture" draws from the seaside, with high-saturation hues reminiscent of traditional fisher women's attire. Sustainability takes center stage with us using renewable bio-based leather, eco-friendly materials, and recycled fabrics, marking our dedication to a more sustainable fashion industry.

Our commitment to cultural sustainability finds expression in our distinct design elements, seamlessly integrating heritage with contemporary fashion. This season's collection challenges conventional notions of "new" and "old" while preserving the MTG signature style. Incorporating technology into our designs is we like to think another hallmark of MTG's innovation. From zero-waste tailoring to renewable materials, we embrace the cutting edge without compromising its commitment to sustainability

We preserve some traditional materials while also incorporating high-end fashion fabrics, functional textiles, and renewable eco-friendly materials based on the specific image requirements. We also utilize functional fabrics, such as renewable bio-based leather from Vegatex and eco-friendly fabrics made from Naia Renew renewable fibers by MIC Rethinking Textile. Additionally, with support from the R.I.S.E. Sustainable Consumption Innovation Platform, we continue to explore sustainable possibilities across various dimensions.

7) We understand you've collaborated with a brand called Sederin from the Fujian locality to preserve and celebrate the Fisher Womens culture. How did that collaboration come about and how important are these partnerships in taking the message to a wider community than the fashion one?

The main visual element of the collection is the "Six Leaves Flower", this flowers fabric comes from the show's exclusive sponsor "Sedrin" recycled beer fermented brewers' grain, making a renewable bio-based leather. This environmentally friendly fabric Barleyskin provided us with Vegatex. Sedrin is a brand that is dedicated to preserving local culture and we collaborated with them and Anheuser-Busch 100 + Innovation Centre to rejuvenate intangible cultural heritage in a beautiful way, leading the beauty of Fujian's fisherwomen from the seaside to the world.

(8) You both studied fashion in London and MTG stands for Mind The Gap, a phrase synonymous with the London underground. How has London's culture and streetstyle influenced your creativity?

After respectively obtaining a Master’s degree in Women's Wear from the London College of Fashion and a Master's degree in Men's Wear from the University of Westminster, we founded MTG. The brand name, which stands for "Mind The Gap," is a sound echoing through the London Underground. We chose this as our brand name to reflect our shared memories of London and to signify that MTG is exploring more possibilities in fashion design. Our overseas study experiences have given us a more open and diverse perspective. However, our uniqueness stems from our cultural identities, specifically our backgrounds as Chinese ethnic minorities. Our cultural heritage, or ethnicity, serves as a source of inspiration for our creative work and is a consistent expression within MTG.

 For MTG, the expression of 'ethnicity' is necessary because it is, in fact, our personal experience. Zhuang and Manchu cultures have been a part of our upbringing, shaping our individual growth. So, what MTG aims to do is extract unique narratives from ethnic cultures and then translate them through a young, contemporary, and modern language. We are firsthand "experiencers" of ethnic culture, and our approach to handling elements of ethnic culture is more genuine and authentic. This sets us apart distinctly from Western designers and other designers without an ethnic cultural background.

 We like to hope our runway show not only captivated the audience but also contributed to the rich tapestry of London Fashion Week. We like to think it brought a fresh perspective to the event, infusing it with a diverse representation of ancient Eastern ethnic cultures.

(9) As a design duo how do you apportion roles and responsibilities both in the creative process and in the running of the business?

After working together for an extended period, everyone's roles have become more clearly defined. The two of us are actually "complementary." We have different backgrounds and preferences when it comes to various forms of art, youth culture, and subcultures. The collaboration process is one of mutual exchange and integration. Lai is responsible for the commercial aspects of women's wear and the marketing department. Christine's responsibilities are more focused on runway collections and the brand's visual aspects.

(10) Having shown to great acclaim during London Fashion Week what are your ambitions and aspirations for the remainder of 2023 and into 2024?

For MTG, our commitment to "sustainability" is expressed on multiple dimensions. On one hand, it involves the development and extensive use of sustainable fabrics. On the other hand, it's about cultural sustainability, preserving the spiritual essence of ethnic cultures. This is an ongoing creative practice for MTG and something we will continue to uphold in the future.

While highlighting the plight of the fisher women and other marginalized minority communities, and the accompanying message that we all deserve the freedom to choose our own identity is at the core of their brand identity, MTG are far more than a cultural checklist. With their "Fujian "Fisher Women's Culture" collection designers Lai and Christine have married sculptural silhouettes with a sassy sensibility which allied with exceptional artisanal expertise has gifted us an assemblage of pieces which comfortably commands that fashion space often the most difficult to master, the one where edgy meets elegant.

There's an authentic alchemy where vision, creativity and a desire to honour and uplift at risk communities have coalesced to produce a collection that we can appreciate in all its gorgeousness, but which also makes us question the world around us. Someone once said that fashion is the least important of life's important things and while that may still be the case, MTG certainly challenge that concept.

While "Mind The Gap" was a new name to us we're sure that, like us, many of you will be looking to fill a gap in your wardrobes with some of their stunning creations.

Many thanks to Lai and Christine for taking the time to talk to us; and to Lori, Angus and the team at Pop PR for their help and support.

You can connect with the brand here https://www.mtg-official.com/ and on IG here https://www.instagram.com/mtg.lab/