Artforms
. Handbags have come a long way since their earliest incarnations. From clutch, crossbody or tote, they are another extension of us, holding our essentials and secrets, a multi-million-pound industry built upon a pocket-sized source of self-expression. Often the joke goes (to the chagrin of many partners) that we can never have too many, but can there be a one-size fit's all bag? There are too many beautiful designs to covet and carry and too many trends and occasions. Finding one bag that seamlessly works for corporate meetings and evening greetings is challenging, but one brand that has found the balance between functionality and aesthetics is Paris-based Beracamy.
Founder and Creative Director Yiling launched Beracamy from her love and deep knowledge of beautiful craftsmanship and design. The brand intelligently marries quality fabrics with innovation to create versatile, playful and distinctive bags in standout shapes that uniquely offer maximum wearability. Through multiple ways to wear each bag, Beracamy ensures longevity in the wardrobe through the brand's clever blend of classic and playful aesthetics that are better for the wallets they hold, the wearer and the planet.
From the 'Nadia' mini bag with its butter-soft, grained cow leather and dual-rolled handles to be worn two ways or carried without a strap to the 'Mini Tote' with a big personality in a small considered rectangular design or the gorgeous 'Devon' with its retro boxy silhouette in a palette of brights and neutrals; there is a selection of classic and statement bags that will garner many compliments. Beracamy also produces a range of small wonders for the feet, from leopard-print slingbacks to loafers and classic boots, all crafted from top-quality leather.
We spoke to Yiling about the inspiration behind Beracamy, how her background in the arts informs her process and her hopes for the brand's future
What was the inspiration behind the creation of Beracamy? Was there a particular person or moment that led you to design accessories?
We've been casually working with this band for about ten years. When we were starting, it was just the two of us; now, there's the team and me. My family also works in the fashion industry, so I have always been around leather. I know the material and feel confident working with and developing something in that direction. Handbags are not as seasonal and fast-paced, so it gives us more time to work with detail and care. It gives you more freedom in that sense.
Did you study fashion design?
Yes, I was at London College of Fashion, there was a period when I was not into leather, and I just wanted to make art and be a painter; that was the main thing I wanted to do, and then I was at Goldsmiths where I did my MA in fine art, and now I'm back here again but with a new perspective on my relationship with handbags and fashion.
How has your fine art/fashion background informed your design process?
I don't know if it directly relates to my time at Goldsmiths, but when people talk about collections, it's more a train of thought that sometimes manifests in a way that could look quite different, so it doesn't necessarily mean it is one collection. Some designs have one or two variations that will work out, and that's the best variation of that concept, and it doesn't need to be pushed any further. It's less so in the way I design and more so to do with the way that I think about what I want to do. The starting point is sometimes a bit different now; it's more about how I conceptualise before I begin the design process.
Where does the name Beracamy come from, and what does the brand stand for?
Initially, it came from names and nicknames of people we care for and love just put together. We are constantly battling with trends in a way because trends are something that incentivises people to shop, but then at the same time, age very quickly, so in a way, I am always thinking of designing something that acknowledges what is currently trending, but it still needs to be classic enough to have that longevity. So it needs to have multiple ways to be worn. I always try to design in that way. For instance, the Nadia can be worn as a crossbody in two ways: handheld and shopper. In a way, we are cosplaying characters daily, so you can wear it as a crossbody, or on the shoulder more elegantly, or hold it neutrally. I always try to have at least two different ways for the bag to be worn, and it's always quite classic in a way.
What's the secret to striking a balance between the playful sculptural aesthetic of the brand and the timeless element?
The starting point for me is more timeless, meaning that it needs to be simple enough for me not to be too tied down to a period of time, but then the types of materials you can use, the compartments etc. So some pieces inject more modern and current elements, but the basis is more classic and neutral. It's always difficult for people to choose a handbag, in a way you don't need to change out of your handbag you could use it to the very end of its lifestyle without having ever taken anything out of it and be able to wear it forever and ever. The classic element allows it to stay as part of your outfit for a long time to come, but it needs to be neutral enough but interesting enough to want to be wearable.
You work with speciality leathers; how do you foster these relationships with suppliers, and what are the most important aspects of working with leathers to ensure you create the best products?
I go to trade fairs to look at the right leathers and work closely with different suppliers to develop something specific to our needs. It could be about thickness, colour and feel. I have had an insight into how things are run and grew up hearing trade-focused but essential conversations. Because it's about more than what you as a designer want to do, you have to understand what different people are looking for. That comes down to what the design is trying to be, and so the leather needs to serve that purpose.
Do you have any favourite designs?
I have so many that I genuinely love. I like the Noor, it has a crossbody and a longer strap, and you can remove the longer chain, which allows you to wear it shorter or longer. So in the winter, you can adjust the strap to wear it over bulkier winter clothes, or if you are a bit taller, it allows a longer strap. Some people have even worn the chain as a bracelet, so you get a free bracelet if you don't want to use the chain! The 'Mini' versions are more like jewellery - more hardware and shine - easy to handle. Elements like softness and the opening are important because they are small and need to be roomy and hold a maximum amount.
Your designs are fun and colourful - are there any challenges creating bags with such innovative shapes?
That's where the artist in me comes in. Sometimes you have a specific design in mind, and you begin to play with the item, and you see challenges. Sometimes through miscommunication, a design is born, and you get new designs that are unintentional, and you play with it more, and it works. I enjoy playing with that because it is a physical object, and you can find practical challenges in many ways.
What sort of person do you think Beracamy is for? And how do you want them to feel when using the bags?
Beracamy is for someone who's not necessarily looking for a big brand but wants something quality that will last and transform in many different ways. You want that to be a staple in your wardrobe, so it's not a one-season item. In terms of trending colours, if a colour works, it will work again, and if you get bored of your bag looking a certain way, you can use it. Most of the leather we use is calfskin, which typically will last longer than lambskin, which is very delicate and beautiful to touch, but you have to be quite delicate with it. So our leather is durable but super soft.
The price point is great; how do you balance creating a quality product at an affordable cost?
We don't want the bags to be at a price where people cannot enjoy them, and by having a close relationship with our manufacturers, we can create that quality.
There are so many brands out there. What's the secret to standing out and having longevity?
When you think about competition, it makes it challenging to have a clear mind. I try not to look too much at what others are doing and know who the clientele is and the specific demographics we are designing for to stay inspired by those people.
What's the best piece of advice that you've been given?
When you come up with one amazing design, don't dwell on that; keep moving and being critical.
What's coming up next?
I'm always working on new designs and finding more sustainable solutions to the creations, which will always be a big topic. It comes down to the initial design, which is essential and will be used for longer and in different ways. We had a pause in the brand for a few years, so we only recently started to pick things back up again. We were working on some non-leather materials for a while. I am still looking for materials that are not just marketed as vegan because I have been looking around a lot. I have seen a lot of different types, like cactus and pineapple leather, but you touch it, and it's polyester but charges three times the amount. We've tried different materials, so it's a case of seeing where the technology is going in terms of developing materials.
What are your hopes for the future as a designer?
We started just with handbags, and shoes are a recent addition. I plan to push that more, too, but the whole schedule for designing shoes and bags is completely different. We are trying to do the same thing that we are doing with the handbags and making designs that are classic enough but bring joy: material and comfort. We want to do more neutrals, expand the colours, play more and create designs like the lunchbox bag that are very durable but still have some give, that origami aspect, so you can still put a lot of stuff inside.
What strikes us about Beracamy is Yiling's passion for her brand, which encompasses a playful and considered aesthetic, that has come from her knowledge of the arts, and a deep understanding and respect for the materials she uses, combined with years of industry knowledge and a genuine enthusiasm for her craft. It is clear Yiling is deeply invested in every detail as we listen to her talk about her designs. From the palette to the fastenings, she carefully considers all elements from concept to end product to ensure that her customers receive a beautifully crafted bag with personality produced to Yiling’s exacting standards. With so many options, from classic to more playful pieces, it might be a difficult choice to land on the one you take away. But, it will be one that you will be happy you chose, one that will bring many compliments and one that will last. And Beracamy's affordable price point ensures that there's a little work of art for everyone.
Order your Beracamy bags and shoes here:
With thanks to Yiling and Since and the team at Fashion Crossover London.